Scottish Ales: The Shilling System (60/70/80)
I used to think Scottish ales were supposed to taste like a campfire. The first time I brewed a batch, I bought peated malt and produced something that tasted like an ashtray.
Turns out, I was chasing a myth. Historical Scottish ales were not smoky; they were malt-forward, caramel-rich, and fermented cold.
The smoky Scotch Ale is a modern American invention, likely influenced by whisky culture. Real Scottish brewing traditions are built on deep malt complexity and technical restraint.
The Peat Myth: Why Historical Scottish Ales Were NOT Smoked
Peat-smoked malt was never a traditional brewing ingredient in Scotland. While distillers used peat for whisky, brewers avoided it to ensure their barley tasted like grain rather than a bonfire.
By the 1700s, commercial breweries in Edinburgh had access to coal and coke, which burned cleaner and hotter than peat. Records from the Scottish Brewing Archive at the University of Glasgow indicate that brewers prioritized malt purity over the smoky character associated with rural kilning.
The confusion stems from 1990s American craft brewing marketing. To differentiate “Scotch Ales” from English styles, brewers added peated malt to emphasize the Scottish identity, despite it being historically inaccurate.
If you want a smoky Scottish-inspired beer, call it a “Peated Scotch Ale” or a creative interpretation. Traditional Scottish ales should rely on malt character alone.
Kettle Caramelization: Engineering Flavor Through Heat
Scottish brewers lacked the variety of specialty malts available today. To achieve rich, toffee-like flavors, they relied on exceptionally long boils-often lasting three to four hours.
This process concentrates the sugars and triggers intense Maillard reactions. The result is a deep copper color and complex flavors of burnt sugar and dried fruit that a standard 60-minute boil cannot replicate.
Extended boils facilitate the formation of melanoidins-brown-pigmented compounds created by the reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars. These compounds increase the beer’s mouthfeel and provide a biological shield against oxidative staling.
The primary trade-off for this flavor profile is significant volume loss. You must account for heavy evaporation by starting with a much larger pre-boil volume and monitoring your fuel source closely.
When performing a long boil, keep the kettle lid off or cracked to encourage evaporation. A covered boil will fail to concentrate the sugars and develop the necessary caramelization.
The Shilling System: Tax-Based Classifications
The Shilling system (/-) was a historical tax bracket based on the strength and cost of a barrel of beer. Over time, these rates became shorthand for the light, heavy, and export-grade styles we recognize in the BJCP Style Guidelines.
- 60 Shilling (Light): OG 1.030-1.035. Low alcohol (2.5-3.2% ABV). The Scottish equivalent of an English mild.
- 70 Shilling (Heavy): OG 1.035-1.040. ABV 3.2-3.9%. The everyday session beer of the Scottish working class.
- 80 Shilling (Export): OG 1.040-1.054. ABV 3.9-5.0%. A fuller-bodied version designed for shipping and longer shelf-life.
The system allowed patrons to walk into a pub and order by strength. An “80/-” offered a noticeably thicker, chewier mouthfeel compared to the biscuity finish of a “60/-.”
When brewing 60/- or 70/- styles, keep the IBUs low (10-20). These beers are designed to be malt-forward and highly sessionable, not bitter.
Yeast: Cold-Tolerant Kinetics
Scottish ales are fermented at the lower end of the ale yeast spectrum, typically between 58°F and 60°F. This creates a clean, slightly nutty profile with minimal fruity esters.
Historically, Scottish breweries utilized cool cellars to keep fermentation in check. This technical restraint prevents the production of “banana” or “bubblegum” esters common in warmer English fermentations.
Fermenting at lower temperatures reduces the initial production of alpha-acetolactate, the precursor to diacetyl. This ensures a clean malt profile without the buttery off-flavors that would clash with the delicate toffee notes.
I recommend 1728 Scottish Ale from Wyeast for its ability to stay clean at these lower thresholds. Always pitch at the target temperature to avoid early ester development during the yeast’s lag phase.
If you lack active temperature control, brew these styles in late fall or winter. A cool basement or a wet towel wrap can help keep the fermentation within the vital 58-60°F window.
Hops: Historical Economic Constraint
Scottish ales are historically under-hopped because hops do not grow well in Scotland’s wet climate. Brewers had to import hops from England at a high cost, leading to recipes that used the absolute minimum required for preservation.
While an English IPA might hit 60 IBUs, a Scottish 80/- rarely exceeds 25 IBUs. The hop character is meant to be a background player, providing just enough balance to prevent the beer from becoming syrupy.
Traditional varieties like East Kent Goldings or Fuggles are the standard choice. I use a single 60-minute addition and avoid any late-hop or dry-hop techniques to keep the profile authentic.
Avoid citrusy New World hops in these styles. If you run out of Goldings, use a neutral noble hop like Hallertau to provide balanced bitterness without overwhelming the malt.
Conclusion
Scottish ales are a masterclass in malt-forward simplicity. By rejecting the smoke myth and focusing on the physics of the kettle and the cold cellar, you can produce a beer with immense depth and drinkability.
Maris Otter, a long boil, and a cool fermentation are the only tools you need. Respect the history, ignore the marketing gimmicks, and let the grain speak for itself.
References
- Scottish Brewing Archive. Historical Records of William Younger’s Brewery. University of Glasgow.
- BJCP. Style Guidelines: Category 14, Scottish Ale. 2021 Edition.
- Journal of the Institute of Brewing. “Melanoidin Formation and Beer Stability.” Vol. 118, 2012.
- Heriot-Watt University. “Fermentation Temperature and Diacetyl Production.” ICBD Research, 2015.